Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil: What Actually Matters for Your Car
The short answer
Use the viscosity and the specification your owner's manual lists. If the manual calls for synthetic, use synthetic. Beyond that, synthetic generally holds up better at temperature extremes and over longer intervals, and conventional oil costs less.
Types
- Conventional: refined base oil. Fine for many older or less demanding engines when it meets the spec.
- Synthetic blend: a mix, priced in between.
- Full synthetic: engineered base oils. Often required for turbocharged and modern engines.
Read the bottle
- Viscosity (for example, the number pair like 0W-20): match the manual.
- Industry certifications (the API "donut" and starburst, ILSAC/API grades) and OEM approvals some manufacturers require. Check that the bottle lists what your manual calls for.
Change intervals
Follow your manual's schedule or the oil life monitor. Use the "severe service" schedule if you tow, take lots of short trips, drive in dust, or face extreme temperatures.
Doing it yourself? See the DIY oil change tool kit, and compare your cost to a shop with FixOrPay.
| Product | Best for | What to look for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full synthetic motor oil | Modern and turbo engines | Viscosity and approvals that match your manual | Check current price at your retailer |
| Conventional motor oil | Engines specified for it | Correct viscosity and certification | Check current price at your retailer |
| Oil filter (vehicle-specific) | Every oil change | Exact fitment | Check current price at your retailer |
| Oil drain pan | Clean draining | Capacity, spout | Check current price at your retailer |
Research-based roundup of product categories. We have not lab-tested these products. Confirm specs and fitment on the retailer's listing.